First unit of 5 Heartrenders. Same colors as snake ladies. This puts me at 500 points, of the 1000 I intend to paint this year.
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Following the Ancient Portal, I wanted to do the Realmgates in a similar style. I ended up having to redo them several times because of a few issues:
The realmgates actually have the glowing thing contained in them, meaning that needs to be much lighter than the rest of the piece. I started out too light and too saturated on both realmgates and had to darken things up before I could proceed properly. Then I had to be very careful that I didn’t punch the highlights on the stonework too high, so that the glow would stay darker than the fire. I half-way succeeded at both these things, and might get some new realmgates to try again. I also didn’t paint any of the do-dads on the pieces (skulls, decorative borders, etc) because I really should have painted them after drybrushing stone, but before working on the fire and glow. I didn’t want to re-apply the glow after painting white skulls so just decided these were done.
Reaper Dungeon Gray, Stone Grey, Weathered Stone
Reaper MSP Clear Pthalo Blue, LED Blue, Pure White (I tried using S75 Electric Blue, but it was almost indistinguishable from the Pthalo blue, and also too opaque). The Pthalo blue was a bit hard to work with in this context, because although it was translucent, the color built up so fast that it was hard to get variations. Next time I will need to start with a darker blue as my base color.
Reaper MSP Clear Magenta, S75 Acid Pink, MSP Spectral White, Pure White
From EC3D Wilds of Wintertide
I tried out several new things on this piece.
The piece was 3D printed on my Adventurer 3, basically as large as the build plate. The inner flamey thing was printed in a bright green and not primed like the rest of the piece. Primed black, drybrushings, going from heavy-handed dark to light-touch white using stone colors. Then, heavy drybrush of Vallejo fluorescent green. The fluorescent green is fairly transparent, so the amount it shows up depends directly on the lightness of the layer below it. This is really useful in avoiding the problem of light/dark border areas not having the proper amount of saturation (ie, lightly drybrush white, then lightly drybrush opaque green results in some of the white not being fully covered and the green looking washed out… if you tried a heavy drybrush of the opaque green instead, you get a harsh transition and/or loose underlying value contrast).
The pictures show both sides, although the piece is mostly symmetrical so there’s not a lot of difference.
Skin: Red Shadow, Bronze Shadow, Bronze Skin
Snake Parts: Clear Magenta over zenithal highlight. S75 Huldra Blue, Marine Teal, Surf Aqua, Aqua/Ghost White for highest lines
Weapons & Armor: Walnut Brown, NMM Gold triad, P3 Menoth White Highlight
Base: Woodland Scenics Flex Paste, smothered in Tamiya Clear Red
She’s magnetized, so she can ride on the Bloodwrack Shrine whenever that gets finished.
I painted up this miniature as a birthday present for Hollymonster (https://www.twitch.tv/hollymonster). This tiefling sorceress is based on her stream mascot, Monster, a tiefling with teal skin and purple hair.
This miniature was from the Bones 1 set and was extremely flexible (too flexible). I replaced her staff with one of the hard plastic staves from Bones 2 (or 3, I forget at this point) to stiffen her up a bit.
Skin was base coated with GW Contrast Aethermatic Blue, then highlighted up with MSP Ghostly Moss and MSP Bright Skin Highlight. Red was GW Contrast Flesh Tearers Red, highlighted with MSP Blood Red and S75 Aldeberan Red. Hair was GW Contrast Magos Purple, highlighted with MSP Spectral White and MSP Pure White. Horns were Oiled Leather Triad, Staff was GW Contrast Skeleton Horde highlighted with some bone color, and the bottom was various wood colors.
color scheme test (v1)
color scheme test (v2)
color scheme test (version 3)
500 points, airbrushed magenta
Medusa, 2 units of 5x Blood Sisters, 5x Lifetakers (I already assembled them as Heartrenders, but I’ll play them as the cheaper Lifetakers)
First Blood Sister mostly done, still need to work on magenta
A treasure chest objective marker, by Games Workshop. I will be using this with my pirate ladies. (Not that they don’t have plenty of booty)
Base wood is S75 Bosh Chestnut, to match my plank bases. VMA Gold is the base for the metals, but I glazed or drybrushed other colors on to vary it. VGA Chainmail Silver for the steel color.