Painted for use as a 40mm flag for use with my Satyxis army. Same colors as usual for the wood: Reddish Brown Badger Stynlyrez primer, Black wash, drybrush S75 Bosh Chestnut, mix in some P3 Hammerfall Khaki for highlights. Used RMS Blackened Steel for the weapons/chains/anchor, highlights courtesy of Vallejo Metal Medium. Grass tufts are from Army Painter.
My character for a one-shot pirate D&D game. The mini is Stonehaven Miniature’s Half-orc Spellblade, but she’ll be a Half-orc swashbuckler. I picked her solely based on this being a mini I wanted to paint.
Most of this is ink washes over zenithal priming. The skin is Reaper MSP Bones Orc Skin with a GW Greenshade wash (a little too much blue for my liking, though). Interestingly, the pants and the coat are the same blue, but the difference is 1 layer vs 5+ layers. Also did a bit of TMM on the swords and pauldrons.
Several years ago, I commissioned Blue Table Painting to paint my Relic Knights Noh Empire faction. At the time, Kyojin Berserkers were so-so and also came in 1-2 man units. I haven’t played 2.0 yet, but I’ve got a tournament coming up at the beginning of February, and the Berserkers look a bit better plus they come in 1-4 man units now. So I painted up the other 2 that I had using the same paint scheme as Blue Table used. The main difference is that I used a yellow-gold NMM whereas they used red-gold NMM. I wanted to try out my Reaper NMM triad so I didn’t worry about matching that exactly. I airbrushed the skin, and used lots of two-brush blending for the grey so that it would be a fast paint job. All-in-all, probably 10 hours for the pair.
Here they are next to the Blue Table Painting version. The newly-painted guys are on the left.
Raging Heroes Dark Elf Flesh Eaters, intended to be used as proxies for Blighted Nyss Hex Hunters.
Standard Legion colors, the most interesting thing on that front is that much of the blending on the butt-capes was done with my new Sotar 20/20 airbrush. I’m liking it, and the fine details it can do, a lot.
The Raging Heroes models are nice sculpts. As modular ball-and-socket models, they are kind of a pain to put together, but not awful. The material (spincast resin) leaves a lot to be desired, though – giant vents, tons of flash, frequent bad mold lines and just a little too brittle.
Finished with my Secret Sophie exchange. If I can get it off early next week, my partner might even get it in time for Christmas.
I used NMM on the armor and blades. I’m happy with the placement on the gold, but I think it needs more contrast. I’m happy with the contrast on the steel, but the placement is definitely wrong somehow.
I started working on Kitty about 2 years ago. I decided to bring her along to ReaperCon where I got in the zone with her and finished her off. Lots of greens and yellows, but it’s all centered around P3 Wurm Green, which is mixed into nearly everything. (I think I had just bought a pot of it right when I first started the mini). Helpful suggestions from other attendees and teachers (Cathy Wappel and Rhonda Bender in particular) definitely improved the quality. The base material is from a tub of stuff I received from Frontline Games in my swag bag.