Carnivean/Ravagore/Scythean #2

My second copy of this model, magnetized for all three possibilities.  I even got the polarity of the magnets the same as the previous chassis, so I can swap parts if desired.

I used the airbrush more extensively, although I reached the limit of my skill with the airbrush.  I feel like my control is good enough to get the smaller armor plates, but I kept splattering or spidering everywhere, and turning down the pressure just stopped the paint flow.  I’m probably not doing something right with the airbrush, because I don’t get a nice even flow of paint unless I increase the pressure past where I need to keep the airbrush back a ways.

Anyway, now Rhyas can play with multiple 2″ reach beasts.  Should make for fun times, especially once the current CID’s point costs take effect.

Carnivean (plus back photos)



Some comparisons between the previously painted chassis (left) and this guy (right).  The Ravagore in particular has a different color head since that will be an easy way to tell them apart (on the off chance I ever use two Ravagores at once).

HDR mode on camera pops the contrast and makes it look nicer, but isn’t color-accurate so I didn’t use it for most of the pictures.

And proof I magnetized properly: old parts on new body


War Dog

“A true son of Khador… a good boy.”

The War Dog (aka, War Doge) was mostly painted up in a paint session when some friends came over to paint.  I probably should have painted all the rivets, but I just couldn’t bring myself to do that for a 3 point model I hardly ever field.

This model was included in my very first purchase to get into the game, the 50 point Khador army box.  Here he is before the current paint job


Painted this guy rather quickly.  I enjoyed doing the glow effects.

Black primer, VMC Oiled Steel and VAC Bright Brass for metal, white for glow, followed by VGC Yellow ink, then 2x Yellow + P3 Green Ink, then Green Ink.  Then white + yellow again for the hot spots.  Vallejo Old Rust and Rust for the rust effects, plus verdigris on the copper.

Base is cork (obviously) with gesso, black primer, then a generous helping of VGC Red Ink to let it seep into the cracks.  Around the edges is green paint filled in with water effect.